Personal Style
An analytical approach to developing a flattering personal style
Style is deeply personal. A dress or other article of clothing that suits you might not work equally well for me - and vice versa. If you've been following The Stylish Sabbatical for some time, you've likely heard me emphasize the importance of wearing hues that complement your natural coloring. Intrinsically, most individuals also understand that certain clothing characteristics, such as silhouette, fabric, pattern, and detailing, enhance their appearance more than others. Just as you would take a methodical approach to identify your ideal color palette, you can adopt an analytical approach to find clothing characteristics that harmonize with your body architecture and facial features. In this article, I explore an analytical system that considers factors like bone structure and facial features, and explain how to use it to develop a personal style that suits you.
Beyond body shape
One analytical approach you’ve likely encountered is body shape analysis, a classic school of thought that begins by identifying key proportions of your body, including your shoulders, bust, waist, and hips, ultimately classifying you as a pear, apple, hourglass, rectangle, or inverted triangle. I find this method to be too narrowly focused, as it emphasizes your current weight over your underlying bone structure and overlooks your facial features and personal preferences.
There are several methods that take these broader factors into account. My current favorite among them is the “Kibbe System,” an approach to personal style that was developed by image consultant and author David Kibbe in the 1980s. The system categorizes individuals into 1 of 13 distinct image identities or “types” based on a combination of physical characteristics, including bone structure, facial features, and overall essence. Each type has its own set of recommendations for clothing styles, fabrics, patterns, and accessories that harmonize with the individual’s features.
I've personally experienced the benefits of being typed, not by David Kibbe himself, but by an image consultant I discovered on Instagram. Having someone objectively evaluate my features was incredibly helpful. Based on my athletic build, square shoulders, and narrow, angular facial features, I’ve been typed as a “Flamboyant Gamine.” The resulting set of recommendations – from wardrobe choices to styling tips – has deeply resonated with me. Knowing what typically suits my frame and what doesn’t has made it easier to shop and has prevented me from over-buying. This experience has not only impacted the evolution of my personal style but has also influenced my approach when working one-on-one with clients, where I apply the same method of objective evaluation to help them discover their harmonious style identities.
A simplified, self-guided system for style typing
If you’re not quite ready to commit to a professional typing, I've identified a simplified, self-guided system that offers valuable guidelines. This system has five, rather than 13, style types and asserts that most women are a combination of 1-2 types.
The following five style types are ordered from those with the most “yang” features to those with the most “yin” features: Dramatic, Natural, Classic, Gamine, and Romantic. In essence, yang features are characterized by sharp angles, elongation, and boldness, while yin features tend to be softer, more delicate, and rounded in appearance. For instance, yang features may include prominent cheekbones, a strong jawline, or taller stature, whereas yin features often involve gentler curves, a more delicate bone structure, and petite stature. Most people have a combination of yin and yang characteristics and find that either yin or yang dominates. Those who have a balanced mixture of yin and yang features are considered pure Classics; however, you can still be a Classic and skew either slightly yin or slightly yang.
This system helps to identify why someone like Cate Blanchett looks fierce in a strong graphic print or bold necklace, why Jessica Beal looks approachable rather than sloppy in a bulky sweater and baggy pants, why Jennifer Connelly looks polished rather than boring in the simplest of outfits, why Lucy Liu can rock a men’s suiting-inspired look, and why Mila Kunis slays every time she wears a dress with draping and ruffles.
As you explore the five style types, keep in mind that it’s normal for some of your characteristics to align with a type while others may not. I, for example, have almost all the characteristics of a Gamine, but I have small eyes rather than the large eyes typical for that type. My facial features are better aligned with the Dramatic description. Accordingly, sharper, bolder Gamine-type items are more harmonious on me than soft, delicate ones.
Now that I know my style types, what’s next?
Once you've identified 2-3 types that most closely describe you, it can be helpful to distill your resulting set of recommendations into a few keywords or phrases that will serve as guardrails to focus your shopping. For example, my personal keywords are “compact,” “fitted” (especially through the shoulders), and “short or cropped.” They remind me to seek out clothing that emphasizes my athletic frame and angular features, with a preference for tailored silhouettes and cropped lengths.
Understanding your style type provides valuable insights into what generally works best for you, but it's essential to remember that it's not a rigid set of rules. While the same item can be worn by different style types, it may need to be styled differently to complement the individual wearer's features. It’s really about the overall look that is given off by an outfit. For instance, consider Gemma Chan, who is featured on the Natural slide wearing a pencil skirt—a piece commonly associated with Classic style types. The outfit works exceptionally well for Gemma because the skirt features an organic print, adding a natural element. Additionally, Gemma has cuffed the sleeves of her blouse, giving it a more approachable, relaxed air. This example highlights how subtle styling choices can transform a piece to perfectly align with an individual's unique style.
Ultimately, personal style is about creating an overall look that reflects your personality and harmonizes with your physical characteristics. So have fun experimenting with the recommendations, and don't hesitate to reach out and share your experiences—I'd love to hear from you!
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I was intrigued by Kibbe and found an online test. I think I’m a “soft yang” natural. Thanks for sharing this!